Getting Bolder: Welcome to the Brightest, Shiniest, and Most Glittery Years of Your Life
It’s been nearly two years since Allure banned the term “anti-aging” from its lexicon and started a national conversation about self-image and self-acceptance. Industry mic drop though it was, let’s be real, there’s still work to be done on the remaining stigmas surrounding aging — chief among them being the notion that your license to wear colorful, bold, and attention-grabbing makeup is revoked past a certain age. Experimental phases can and should happen more than once in a lifetime, especially when it comes to beauty. After all, beauty standards are crumbling, trends are expanding, and if you’ve visited YouTube.com in 2019, you’ll see that makeup is kind of a huge deal.
When it comes to aging, we tend to think of it in terms of inevitability rather than life expectancy. For many reasons, not all of us get to age, so those fortunate to live a long life get to see the world with all the accrued experience and wisdom picked up along the way. Instead of just romanticizing youth, we can also romanticize wisdom and experience. Plus, you’re never too old to rebel, especially against structures that undermine and diminish your personhood, based simply on your continued existence. They say the older you get, the more set in your ways you become, but curiosity is ageless and from what I’ve witnessed, not immune to glitter. If you live in a body, you can put glitter on it, full stop. Sure, eye makeup techniques and foundation application methods may require some tweaking when it comes to mature skin, but with knowledge comes possibility.
Some of us who benefit from “aging privilege” (if anyone’s ever complimented you with “black don’t crack” or “Asian don’t raisin,” you know) have melanin to thank for its relentless grip on elastin — something I resented as a late-blooming teen with baby fat still in my cheeks but now I’m keenly aware is a blessing. It introduces an interesting curveball to aging stigmas because there really isn’t a standard timeline of what aging is “supposed to” look like for everyone, giving us even more reason to stop implicating this time crisis altogether, right? I’m hitting my mid-thirties in stride, having learned the importance of protecting and taking care of my skin now for the future (something my mom and her generation weren’t too bothered with, so she tells me) while we all chip away at beauty conventions, one dumb stigma at a time.
Age should never be a limitation on participating in the beauty world, so consider the below a renewed invitation to the world of beauty that now has a shade and formula to fulfill your most cosmetically-creative ambitions. You certainly do not need our permission, but maybe you’d like some inspiration. We tapped makeup artist, photographer, and Beauty Is Boring founder Robin Black to give you 12 gorgeously colorful, shiny, and vibrant makeup creations on models, all of whom’s careers cumulatively outspan the Hadids, the Jenners, and the Delevingnes combined.
Glossy, Bronze Eyes & Fuchsia Lips
“I started [modeling] at 16, so that’s 36 years on and off — intensely from 18 to 27. I was the first Nigerian to do Sports Illustrated, the face of J. Crew for many years, and have done commercials and runway internationally. I came out of a punk and experimental London, from the world of taboo and working with people like Vivienne Westwood, and really loved the makeup artists who challenged the template of makeup for black skin. Makeup artists like Craig Gadson.”
“Glossy eyelids can be challenging, but this bronzed tone makes it a very wearable look,” Black says. Matching a nude or a shade similar to your skin tone makes its migration slightly less noticeable when it creases. (Sorry, all gloss creases over time — that’s just the way of the gloss.) “All eye glosses move but you can make it last longer by using a good eyelid primer and making sure not to get any of it on your actual lashes.”
On Akure: Skin was prepped with Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Moisturizer and Drunk Elephant Shaba Complex Eye Serum before using Kosås Tinted Face Oil and Surratt Beauty Perfectionniste Concealer Palette on her complexion and Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks in Poppet on her cheeks. Black swiped Surratt Beauty Lid Lacquer in Kogecha over her entire eyelid and under her lashline. The lip color is Kosås Violet Fury Lipstick, which Black says leaves an incredibly flattering stain as it fades. “I like to apply it full strength in the morning and then touch up with lip balm during the day to keep the stained look!”
Copper and Orchid Eyes & Nude Lips
“I go cycling in Venice to the farmer’s market in the morning, wearing glitter [on my eyes], and I feel fucking fantastic! And I say a huge fuck’em all to anyone who thinks I should take the veil because I’m 50. Audre Lorde said: “Caring for myself is not self-indulgence. It is self-preservation, and that is an act of political warfare. Yes to that.”
“Unexpected color combinations like this shimmering copper and rich violet are a fun way to shake things up. Try using the shimmer with a damp brush to give it more pop. This vivid eye is best paired with a subtle lip and warm cheeks,” Black suggests.
On Akure: Black used Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream and Tatcha Luminous Deep Hydration Eye Serum on Akura’s skin first for a well-hydrated base. She used Tom Ford Traceless Foundation and Concealing Pen for complexion coverage and Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate Glow Stick in Sunstruck on her cheeks for warmth. On eyes, the top two shades in Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in African Violet were used as well as Wander Beauty Unlashed Volume & Curl Mascara on lashes. For brows, Black used Wander Beauty Frame Your Face Micro Brow Pencil in Taupe and Nars Brow Gel in Clear. The nude lip color on Akure’s lips is Tom Ford Lip Color in Sable Smoke.
Bright Yellow Statement Eyes
“My modeling career started at 52. It really took off when I turned 60, and now at 63, I’m really having a lot of fun. It’s so wonderful to see women embracing who they are and doing exactly what they want with their clothes, hair, and makeup. It frees us up to live our lives and not worry about what others may think.”
“Yellow is a surprisingly flattering shade on a wide variety of complexions. Be bold and fill in your entire eyelid with the brightest, matte yellow you can find. Make sure to use a good eyelid primer and be prepared to do some clean up after you blend — the fall out from yellow eye shadow will look like a fading bruise under the eye if you don’t wipe it clean.
“Gillean has naturally pale lashes and rather than distract from the yellow, I skipped the liner. If you have dark lashes, try a soft brown mascara or simply curl your lashes and leave them bare.”
On Gillean: Prep: Black prepped the skin with Flora and Bast Age Adapting Facial Serum and used Tom Ford Glow Tone Up Hydrating Cushion Compact for a bit of complexion coverage. She used Flesh Beauty Tender Flesh in Hug for a subtle color on the cheeks. For the yellow eyes, Black prepped Gillean’s lids with Nars SmudgeProof Eyeshadow Base and used Nars Single Eyeshadow in Douro for that bright yellow. She used Boy De Chanel Eyebrow Pencil in 204 very lightly on brows and finished her lips with Surratt Beauty Automatique Lip Crayon in In The Flesh.
Mod Blue Eyes & Pale Pink Lips
“It’s so funny, I get a lot of criticism online for not penciling in my brows. Hahaha, and why should I?”
“A bright pop of matte, pastel blue is the perfect spring [or] summer accessory. Pair this simple but striking eye with a natural, glowing complexion with shades of pink and peach. If you have darker lashes than Gillean, you can add a coat of black mascara or just leave them natural.”
On Gillean: Same skin and complexion prep as the former look, but Black used DiorSkin Rosy Glow in 001 Petal on Gillean’s cheeks for a rosier blush. For the pastel, baby blue eyes, she used DiorShow On Stage Liner in Matte Pastel Blue. Gillean’s brows were penciled in lightly with Wander Beauty Frame Your Face Micro Brow Pencil in Taupe and Black finished her look with Tom Ford Lip Color in Blush Nude on lips.
Peachy Eyes & Vinyl Coral Lips
“I started modeling in 2004. It was something I always wanted to do since my teens. I never let myself believe age would be an issue. At 45, I felt young, vibrant, and ambitious enough to start a new career. At 60, I still feel young and vibrant.”
“For a truly lacquered lip look, fill in the lip with an opaque lipstick then top it with a matching lip gloss or one with a complementary color. Go back and dab a tiny bit more of the gloss right in the center of the bottom lip for an extra-reflective finish.”
On Teruko: Black prepped skin with Sisley Paris Hydra Global Serum and Sisley Paris Eye Contour Mask, applying Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation on top to even out her complexion. On cheeks, Black used Surratt Beauty Artistique Blush in Brillant Idée and Flamme, and Black says she loved using the Transparent shade of Chanel Baume Essentiel as highlighter. The same blush was also used on eyes, all topped off with Surratt Relevée Mascara. she used Chanel Boy De Chanel Eyebrow Pencil in 206 on Teruko’s brows and for the bright, vinyl lip, she used Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Infrarose and Chanel Rouge Coco Gloss in 172 Tendresse.
Graphic Denim Liner & Peachy-Nude Lips
“At first, it was always ‘go natural with neutrals for women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s.’ Now, almost anything goes — color is a wonderful outlet for self-expression. It is strikingly clear how attitudes are changing with so many women choosing to go gray. Bold colors tend to complement gray hair.”
“To create graphic shapes using powder, start by lightly spritzing your eye shadow with water (I like to use Heritage Rosewater). Swirl a small damp brush into the eye shadow and begin sketching out your shape on the eyelid. It’s easy to make corrections, just use a pointed cotton bud dipped in Bioderma or your favorite micellar water.”
On Teruko: Same skin and complexion prep as before, but this time Black used Kosås Color and Light Palette in Helios on cheeks as well as the Chanel Baume Essentiel in Transparent for highlighter. To create the denim-colored negative-space eye makeup look, Black used the indigo shade of Chanel Les 9 Ombres Palette in Edition No2 Quintessence and topped lashes with Le Volume De Chanel Mascara in 70 Blue Night. For lips, Sunnies Face Fluffmatte in Nudist is to thank for that warm, peachy nude.
Glittery Eyes & Red Lips
“Makeup seems to be lighter, and more transparent [now] — not so much about covering up, rather enhancing what you have. One of the mistakes I see all the time from my generation is that they dress with the old rules, fashion and makeup.”
“Glitter doesn’t have to be a messy, difficult application. Try a glitter paste (like the original, LemonheadLA!) and simply pat a single shade over your entire eyelid. Stop right above the crease and use a little piece of tape or one of Daiso’s Sticky Q-Tips to remove any excess.”
On Marian: Black prepped skin with Vanderohe No.1 Nourishing Serum before applying Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation
and Concealer. For her subtle pink flush, Black used Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate Cheeks in Sublimate. The glitter on Marian’s eyes is LemonheadLA Spacejam in 54 (a custom shade Black collaborated on with the brand). She used Wander Beauty Unlashed Volume & Curl Mascara on her lashes and Nars Brow Perfector in Blonde Cool on brows. Marian’s red lip was created using Tatcha Kyoto Red Silk Lipstick.
Monochromatic, Metallic Pink
“Getting and keeping yourself in a state of being happy is the best beauty secret.”
“Colored highlighters make for great eyelid color! Use a translucent or skin-colored primer underneath to really make them [appear more vibrant].”
On Marian: Same skin prep as before, but this time Black used Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation for complexion coverage. A wash of Dior Rouge Blush in 047 Miss gave a watercolor-like flush of color on cheeks. Black prepped eyelids with Nars Eyelid Primer in Translucent before applying Fenty Beauty Killawatt Highlighter in Wattabrat and finishing her lashes with Wander Beauty Unlashed Volume & Curl Mascara. For a pale pink lip, Black used Bobbi Brown Luxe Lipstick in Pale Mauve.
Rhinestone Eyes and Disco Blush
“I think we all should feel free and not be afraid to express our beauty in our own way. When I was going through my chemotherapy in 2017, I had to stop coloring my hair and started to lose it, so I shaved my head into a mohawk, and it surprisingly looked cool — even with grays. I put some makeup on and went out to see my friends, I felt a little embarrassed, but at the same time, felt great and free. My friends loved it, of course.”
“Rhinestones may seem like a strictly editorial or pop star look, but they can be very wearable when applied delicately,” Black says. “Try a single line of crystals, positioned in the center of your eyelid instead of right on the lashline. If you don’t have enough lid space for this, move the crystals above your crease or right under your brow.” Black says she always uses Duo Eyelash Glue when applying embellishments because it’s safe for even sensitive skin and gentle to remove.
On Tomoko: Skin prep began with Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Creme and Chanel Le Lift Creme Yeux. Black used Sisley Paris Phyto-Blanc Cushion Foundation in #3 on her complexion and the Nars Exposed Cheek Palette and Chanel Baume Essentiel in Transparent for the draped, disco blush. After applying Swarovski crystals on Tomoko’s eyelids, Black tightlined between her lashes with Nars Velvet Eyeliner in Black Moon and applied Shu Uemura Ultimate Natural Mascara through her lashes. She wears Rituel De Fille Enchanted Lip Sheer in Whitethorn on her lips.
Hot Pink Vinyl Lips
“I tell my husband that women are like vintage cars — as we get older we look classy and need high maintenance; he agrees and laughs.”
Black keeps edges crisp with statement lip colors like this vibrant fuchsia. “To keep the lipstick from bleeding, use a small flat brush with a tiny bit of concealer on it and trace around the edges of the lip after you have applied the lipstick,” she suggests.
With the same skin prep and foundation from the previous look, Black used Vapour Organic Beauty Aura Multi Use in Courtesan on Tomoko’s cheeks, Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Linen on her eyelids and Surratt Beauty Inner Light Baton in Perle in the inner corners for a glow. That bright pink lip is Fenty Stunna Lip Paint in Unlocked.
Metallic, Teal Winged Shadow
“I started at 28 by accident, last minute, to replace a model — one of my friends, who was brought to the emergency room in the hospital. I’ve been modeling for 35 years now.”
Black prefers pencil or cream formulas for intense, sparkling colors like this teal, which also makes graphic shapes easier to create. Contrasted with peachy nudes, you get maximum color impact.
On Yazemeenah: Skin was prepped with Epicuren Soothe Dermal Repair Balm and Epicuren Eye Alive Serum. Black used Rituel De Fille The Ethereal Veil in Metis for complexion coverage. For blush, Sisley Paris Highlighter Blush in L’orchidee Corail 3 was used, topped with Vapour Organic Beauty Halo Illuminator as highlighter. That teal eye shadow is Sisley Paris Photo-Eye Twist in Emerald, which Black then finished off with Sisley Paris So Intense Mascara on Yazemeenah’s lashes. She mixed Flesh Beauty Hot Sauce Lip Gloss in Like Stillness and Steamed Blurry to create that peachy lip color.
Coppery Sunset Eyes
“When I was young, in my 20s, and insecure, I was hiding my beauty under strong makeup that I would not do at all now. Now, I am not hiding myself, I am celebrating my beauty. I was used to buying a lot of products when I was younger until I decided, like 15 years ago, to start to make my own. My skin has never been so great and felt so good.”
A tip for covering up grays in your brows: “Try using a tinted brow gel. Make sure you select a formula that matches your natural brow color (or what it was prior to going gray),” Black advises. Her at-home brow tint of choice is Refectocil, for those who’d rather set-it-and-forget-it.
Black prepped Yazemeenah’s skin with Avene Skin Recovery Cream Rich and Avene PhysioLift Eyes. She mixed a drop of Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Sunshine Serum with the Rituel De Fille The Ethereal Veil in Metis for a glowier complexion, amping up the effect with Fenty Sun Stalk’r Instant Warmth Bronzer in Bajan Gyal and Dior Flash Luminizer in 002 Ivory on top. The copper eyes are from the Dior 5 Couleurs Wild Earth in Sienna eye palette, defined with Diorshow Kohl Pencil in Black and Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume HD Mascara in Black. Yazemeenah’s rusty-red lip is Dior Addict Lacquer Plump in Sunset Red.
Makeup & photography: Robin Black
Hair: Sheridan Ward and Nancilee Santos
Models’ quotes as told to Sable Yong